bmw e39 540i manual gearbox

You can help Wikipedia by expanding it. v t e By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. In fact, while this car is 22 years old, it still has quite a lot of appeal to it thanks to the simple and uncomplicated design that has aged very gracefully. While that’s 112 hp less than the E39 M5, it’s still a respectable amount of power to be sent through the rear wheels via a six-speed stick shift.The most recent owner purchased and imported it into the United States in November 2019 and it currently has 5,583 miles (8,986 km) under its belt. For example, there are 12-way power-adjustable bucket seats with 3 memory settings for the driver, an auto-dimming rear mirror, a 10-speaker audio system, automatic dual-zone climate control, and cruise control. It also gets the sports package. It was also the first 5 Series where a four-cylinder diesel engine was available. Rack and pinion steering was used for four- and six-cylinder models, the first time that a 5 Series has used this steering system in significant volumes. Unlike its E34 predecessor and E60 successor, the E39 was not available with all-wheel drive.It was the first M5 model to be powered by a V8 engine.In 1998, its successor the BMW M57 was introduced in the 530d model, however the BMW M51 engine continued to be used for two more years in the 525td and 525tds models.It was powered by the S62 V8 engine. All E39 M5 cars were sold in the sedan body style with a 6-speed manual transmission.Therefore, the changes for 1996 represent the 1997 model year, for example.Indonesian models were assembled in Jakarta from complete knock-down kits.Retrieved 12 April 2017. Retrieved 17 January 2017. Retrieved 7 December 2017. By using this site, you agree to the Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. Relatively easy install, they look like good quality definitely a big improvement over my old ones.Update 2015: It's been almost a year no leaks, works like and looks like OEM.

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See official rules. See official rules. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. You can set the denomination in your cart during checkout. Must be longer than 2 characters. Must be longer than 2 characters. It is designed for longitudinal engine applications and is designed for use on engines producing up to 499 N?m (368 lb?ft) of torque.Bellhousings can be swapped among V8 and L6 engines, however this is not advised, as bearing preload is determined in part by precise case dimensions.However, internal shift linkages are its one known failure point, and neither BMW nor Getrag will provide replacement internal parts (except some shift linkage parts), rebuild instructions, or rebuild service. The only solution to a failed gearbox is a replacement transmission.

Thread hardline down as you twist exchanger to get hardline to slide out. The hardline connection can be removed from exchanger but it is just as easy to pull it out still connected. I replaced the TO bearing collar and clutch arm as well as my used units were rough. You should use that for a lot of things to confirm and illustrate what is listed here. Sometimes there are multiple diagrams you want for each system - aka there are high-level EWS Immobilizer diagrams that are helpful, then there are multiple starter wiring diagrams - one under Immob - Starter Control, and one under Starter Control. Printing the pinouts for the critical connectors and the locations for items you can't find is obviously very helpful and again should confirm what is here (obviously it's how we figured it out). I strongly suggest removing the key from the ignition the entire time you are working on the following, and definitely not turning to 'start' position while any modules are disconnected. I think that triggered EWS Immob tampering lock for us at one point. Leave the key out of the ignition completely until all the rewiring is done. With the manual car this data feed is not available, instead the reverse switch is a manual switch on the transmission, fed to the DME, which then in turn has a dedicated signal line to the cluster. Therefore for reverse lights to work, two things need to be in place - the reverse switch from the tranny needs to be wired to the DME, and then the DME needs a new line to be run to the cluster. Parts needed: Reverse switch plug to match tranny socket Existing EGS harness wires (do not cut these back until you are sure you do not need to reuse any more lines) New pin for DME connector X60002 New pin for DME connector X60004 (see below - may be able to re-use pin from EGS connector) New pin for cluster X10114 Wire up the reverse switch plug with 2 wires. To make this easy, reuse 2 existing wires from the auto tranny harness that already go to the E-box.

Had to lightly sand off just enough for snug fit with pre-oiling it and bore.Really glad I came across this option, happy with this purchase.I am very satisfied with the quality especially for the price.But, it works as well as I'd expect, and almost looks factory.Strong materials and keeps everything where it should be. Learn how to use them first so you don't mess anything up. Even a pro would be impressed by these. To start viewing messages,Iassume most of the mechanical bits of installing transmissions and clutches andshift linkages etc.Thetricky and heretofore 'secret' parts are the coding and wiring so those itemsare spelled out in more painful detail. Also this is more or less the order we tackled things in, obviously somethings can be moved around a bit, and you obviously could test fire thingswithout the driveline in the car, so that could be a last-last step. Each type uses different plugs and wiring setups, so it's best to avoid any conversion. Parts needed: Brake lever from any facelift E39 manual, clutch lever from any E39 manual - i.e. the clutch pedal is universal but the brake pedal is not. Removing the clicker is as simple as unscrewing the side cover from the accelerator assembly and pulling out the noisemaker, as illustrated here: To swap a 'true' manual pedal in, you have to swap the pins into a manual electrical connector, as the connector is keyed to prevent incorrect accelerator installation. Part number for the floor-accelerator pedal connector is 61138383300, accelerator itself is shared across a range of contemporary models - E46 etc. Possibly E46M3? Those will be slightly different may not be ideal?) Engine rear main seal if you are doing it - highly advised Manual flywheel, clutch, throwout bearing - new highly advised obv. Clutch parts - strongly suggest new: pilot bearing, throw-out-bearing collar, clutch arm, clutch pivot pin, shift-selector-shaft seal. Cap alternator outlet.

Wire the 'bottom' signal switch to pin 8 on the EWS if you want the functionality. It should provide ground to the EWS pin 8 when the clutch is fully depressed. It is a signal wire and does not have to be heavy gauge. Cruise cut-off switch As above - be sure to have the 540 switch version not the M5 version This switch provides a voltage signal to the DME when the clutch is engaged, and it cuts out when the clutch begins to be depressed (the 'top switch') in order to disengage cruise. The DME will not engage cruise unless it has 12V on this line. Run a wire to the E-box (this is slightly PITA - possibly an EGS wire could be repurposed, but we ran a clean new wire in this case) and wire this switch to pin 23 of the DME X60004 connector - the black 40-pin DME connector. This should provide voltage to the DME when the clutch pedal is at the top of it's travel, but cut the signal as soon as the pedal is touched. It is a signal wire only so does not to be heavy gauge. Auto-start disable This is critical for the engine to start - the Auto-start relay needs to be either bypassed or reworked. There are a couple ways to get this to work. The first method is the factory-correct method, and just requires one new short gauge wire at the ignition, and then the relay to be bypassed. The second method requires a ground change at the EWS, a splice in the Ebox, but leaves the starter relay in place (to be clear - auto-start still is disabled but the starter relay is still required in place for car to start in the second scenario). Factory 540i6MT Method: Parts needed: New pin for ignition switch connector X33 pin 8 New pin for EWS connector X1659 pin 2 Appropriate heavy gauge wire Automatic trans version of EWS has a 'terminal 30' signal going into pin 2. This will be hot as soon as ig switch goes to position 2 which is not good in the new future. Remove the pin and cut the big red wire going to this pin and cap it safely as it will still be hot in the future.

In the E-box, provide ground to one terminal of the switch, and wire the other terminal to 2 of the X60002 DME connector in the E-box. This is the black 24-pin connector. Remove cluster, and identify pin 25 on the blue 26-pin connector X10114. This needs to be run to the E-box, and connected to pin 19 of the 40-pin black DME connector X60004. Option 1 - This is a fairly easy single run to thread back to the E-box and wire directly. This should be a blue with black stripe wire and was the old gear indication signal for the EWS from the transmission module and therefore now unused. You can cut this at the EWS, pull it up to the cluster pin 25, and then find the corresponding end in pin 3 of EGS connector X70003 in the E-box, and shift that over to the DME. Clutch switches Unlike prior cars, the post-facelift E39 clutch switches are inductively triggered by a single module that connects to the clutch master cylinder and provides 2 different output signals. Parts needed: Inductive clutch switch with wiring 'adapter' harness for 540 manual (should be 4 wires). Note - the M5 part will snap onto the clutch master but WILL NOT WORK as the logic for the inductive switches and pinout is different. New pin for DME connector X60004 Appropriate wire as necessary Starter lock-out switch This signal provides ground to the EWS module when clutch is fully depressed (the 'bottom switch') in order to start the car. Note this is not necessary and is a USA-only anti-retard function because Americans are dumber than other people and cannot be trusted to not drive through their garage wall (just like they need to be told that you might want to watch the hell out for those objects that are in your mirror). This can be trivially hardwired out, or, can be coded out easily in the EWS module as a single option change with zero wiring necessary. However if you want the clutch starter-interlock to work you would wire this up as follows.

In this case you will later have to hand recode some modules back to touring settings - aka GM: touring hatch vs trunk lid, possibly some DSC issues, and likely the SLS system is going to have issues. However this definitely works for a basic start. We did this and it worked for sure aside from the trunk refusing to open and a few funny SLS codes. You could then go back and hand code those modules back to the original ZCS. I did this also and in the end aside from one screw up on my part, it worked fine. Note: The hazard I ran into here is that the ABG airbag aka MRS module is REAL fussy about coding. It does not like being coded as a Euro unit, and in fact, I didn't take this seriously enough (and didn't do my research - seems a known issue if you try to hand-code the SRS system it will often flag an invalid config and then be nearly impossible to recover (I have hopes here for recovering mine, but it counts on getting another E39 MRS module and reading that and writing the hard EEPROM back?) At any rate, I thought this was a good route until I hit this issue. I do believe now I could have made this way work if I was very careful about recoding the MRS module using a ZCS after the original code but still - this one turns out to be a lot of work. 3. Selectively code the most important modules using the ROW Wagon or USA Sedan ZCS, and leave the rest of the cars modules untouched, keeping the OEM coding. This is what I will describe below but a NCSExpert Expert should be able to pull this off through any of the methods described. Automated diag software like DIS will still look for a transmission computer and be all crankypants that it can't find it. Not a big deal but not quite as clean as if you are saving the ZCS into the IKE and EWS as a ROW Touring or a USA Manual Sedan. This can be done before you even start the project. Read your existing ZCS using NCSExpert and carefully save and record it.

Use Zeko to decode your ZCS and save a screenshot of it to capture all the details. Using Zeko, calculate the GM part of the code for a ROW Left Drive Touring (Type DN51) or USA Sedan (Type DN53) For the SA portion of the code, start with the decoding of your existing SA code. Before making any changes, use NCSExpert to save existing coding for key modules. Again, can be done before starting the project. Something like GT1 or PASoft makes this easier than going module by module in INPA. This seems to be fine. This table identifies the 'final' versions of the software that BMW released for each model year (at least for TU engined cars).Once the DME is written you can scan the car again and should have no EGS related errors at all. If all start-up rewiring is in place you should now be able to start the car and test it. Leave it shutoff for a while, then clear all fault codes, then try the alignment. Again, hopefully anybody following these instructions finds that is not necessary.I kept notes in OneNote the entire project and it just won't paste nicely into Vbulletin without doing a bunch of weird stuff to the linebreaks and I can't spend another hour futzing around deleting extra line spaces. See the attached PDF for a nice clean version. - - - Updated - - - Hopefully Michael will be psyched since he kept asking for this. Dude how did you read it so fast!? I clicked POST and 3 seconds later your reply notification came through.I skimmed through and was thoroughly impressed.Help me here. I need fodder for convincing why the family hauler should gain a clutch. Oh, and the E46 M3 version of the 420G will not fit. The bellhousing is part of the transmission; you need a V8 bell.Help me here. I need fodder for convincing why the family hauler should gain a clutch. You are hereby conferred the title of Sir Gear Grinder of the Order of Bimmerforum Royalty!Short shift and keep the revs low and you might gain more. But what's the fun in that.

If you are industrious you could follow it back and remove it at the source but capping should be sufficient. This will be obsolete, and needs to be replaced with a nice fat wire going to the EWS. Remove the pin from X33 using a pin-removal tool. This is a huge PITA if you do not have the proper tool although you might be able to mangle it out, be careful not to screw up the plastic connector. Cut and cap the existing wire. Wire up the new pins for EWS X1659 pin 2 and ignition switch X33 pin 8 using a heavy-gauge wire (same as old red wire cut from EWS) and install into the connector housings. ONLY after you have done the above, remove the green autostart relay from behind the glove box, remove the relay socket, and then splice the two large wires going to pins 2 and 6 firmly together. This will bypass the autostart relay. If you do this before the previous step above, again, the starter will run as soon as the switch goes to position 2. BAD. So leave this for last. You could use a jumper here but my tech encouraged me to not be a hack and leave an opportunity for potential connection failure so we hard spliced it. The other 2 wires to the socket do not matter and can be left in place. The starter relay now does nothing and can be removed (general purpose green BMW relays - not bad to have a spare for fuel pump etc.) Relay Rewire Method: Parts needed: Ground eyelet Splice materials (butt splice or solder, shrink wrap) In an Automatic car, the ignition switch sends 12V to the DME on pin 8 to tell it to run the starter. The DME then does this by then grounding out pin 4 on the starter relay. The starter relay, at the same time, has gotten power from the EWS at ignition turn-on, so when it is grounded, it can fire the starter. As soon as the DME is happy the engine is running it cuts the ground signal to the relay and the starter stops turning.

You could easily wire the 12V from ignition to the relay, then ground the relay, and cap all the other wires (this would be a 3rd method?), but in order to have a tidy and elegant minimal-new-wiring scenario we can reverse the use of the pins on the relay (relay doesn't care about DC polarity) and not have to run wires. Cut (or extract pin) the blue with black stripe wire on pin 8 of the EWS connector. Terminate this wire with an eyelet and connect to ground (brake switch ground is closest). In the E-box, remove pin 6 and pin 40 of connector X60004. Cut pins off and splice wires together. Be sure your starter relay is in place at all times in this case. You should now be ready to start as soon as the re-coding is complete. Used parts for a lot of metal parts is fine, but suggest you replace rubber and plastic bits w new where possible. Both of the 2 used rubber sealing boots I had were cracking in the seams so new is not bad idea although it's not like it's a hermetic seal needed there really. After rest of job is done, install an interior boot and shift-knob Trans install: Pretty straightforward manual transmission installation - jack tranny into place, bolt up and connect linkages, and install new manual cross-member with new mounts. I would also just have cut one from paper gasket material, would have been easy. Also a great time to replace rear subframe bushings with the Meyle HD solid versions. Reinstall exhaust. Coding Notes: I fully assume someone doing the coding has familiarity with NCSExpert and WinKFP. This is not the place to teach about what those are and how to use them. This all should be able to be done at almost any time in the job once the car is no longer going to move with the automatic. Whether it 'can tell' if it is a touring vs.EWS (Immob) needs to be recoded as a manual.

The direct power of a manual gearbox is kindof addictive.So far looks like 20-21.5 in similar driving, so not a massive upgrade. If you use the manual sedan diff ratio then you do see a big step up AFAIU.I used to get 25-26 MPG (stock) on the highway at cruise which includes the occasional WOT burst when the coast is clear.After the bolt-ons not sure what I'd get on HWY as I haven't done a road trip yet, but it definitely revs higher than with the stock 3.15's. - - - Updated - - - Awesome writeup BTW OP, with the lack of Touring conversion info out there, your experience will be the benchmark for many future 3-pedalers for sure. Keep up the great work!!!This is happening later this year, I'm still hunting for a donor car, but now I have more of incentive to move on this.I used to get 25-26 MPG (stock) on the highway at cruise which includes the occasional WOT burst when the coast is clear. This is happening later this year, I'm still hunting for a donor car, but now I have more of incentive to move on this. I thought I had that wired up but my guy screwed up and the car he obtained was pre-facelift unbeknownst to me, and in the end it provided about 3 inconsequential parts. Especially now that run down 540i sedans are starting to hit the market pretty cheap. Anybody paying a shop to do this will save a bundle by having the info above - unfortunately since we had to wade through figuring a lot of this out, it in fact did cost me a bundle. He must have gotten the special one.I thought I had that wired up but my guy screwed up and the car he obtained was pre-facelift unbeknownst to me, and in the end it provided about 3 inconsequential parts. Especially now that run down 540i sedans are starting to hit the market pretty cheap. Anybody paying a shop to do this will save a bundle by having the info above - unfortunately since we had to wade through figuring a lot of this out, it in fact did cost me a bundle. He must have gotten the special one.

Clutch master is totally different, all the switches are totally different, and the brake pedal is totally different, and bracket is totally different. Throttle is in a different universe - bracket mounted vs floor mounted and independent from the pedal bracket. A non-VANOS car is near useless as a donor to a post-facelift car - I know because I ended up with one (did not realize it was pre-facelift, shop was sourcing it and assured me it was the right one.) Buried somewhere in my notes is the comment that in the end I only pulled 3-4 tiny trivial things (ex: the foam insulator block that goes around the shifter.) from the donor and it was a complete waste of time.I'm currently in the middle of my conversion and have a couple of questions. 1. I never use cruise control and frankly don't care it doesn't work. Do you foresee any issues with not bothering to wire up the clutch switch for the cc. 2. I similarly don't care about having a lock-out on the starter unless the clutch is in. Am I correct in assuming that I can attach a ground wire to terminal 8 of the EWS instead of wiring up the clutch switch (I'd like to get the car running first since I can't do the coding myself). A few tips for anyone trying this: - As mentioned above, get a donor car. They are so cheap these days it's not worth trying to gather all the parts. - I didn't have a pin removal tool, but was successful removing the pin from the ignition switch plug without it. If you're careful, you can use a thin sewing pin to straighten the barbs on the connector pin. Then insert a poker through the female end of the connector pin to push it out. Worked for me, but it's worth buying a pin removal tool.Do you foresee any issues with not bothering to wire up the clutch switch for the cc. 2. I similarly don't care about having a lock-out on the starter unless the clutch is in.

Am I correct in assuming that I can attach a ground wire to terminal 8 of the EWS instead of wiring up the clutch switch (I'd like to get the car running first since I can't do the coding myself). Then you dont have to mess w a wire or worry about the connection dropping out and having a mystery no start. But either will work and ive run the car both ways (i have no wire and purely coded out now)Now all I have to do is time the cams on the donor car engine.Since you've served it on a platter, let's if this one guy here will stop dreaming and finally do it. I like the clutch-less start up and agree it's a feature for dumbasses. Since I transferred over everything from the M5 to my wagon, including this feature, I'd like to disable it. I was playing with a euro-spec E39 M5 last week and it didn't have this stupid feature, it was sooo nice not having to clutch in. I see that it can be coded out. But if I were to disable it manually by wiring, it won't affect any other system?But if I were to disable it manually by wiring, it won't affect any other system? The start lock-out goes to the EWS so theres no function for it aside from this. Basically as soon as the car starts EWS is done so theres no other interference. This is absolutely not true. The starter rewiring must also happen at the very very least.Digital Point modules: Sphinx-based search. Click here to order! Your gearbox is responsible for transmitting all of your engines horsepower to your driveshaft, rear differential and finally the rear wheels. Within your gearbox gears are mounted to and input and output shaft. These shaft hold gears that mesh with each other and transfer power from the input shaft to the output shaft. As the gears mess they break the polymer chains that give oil its viscosity. Over time the oil will get thinner and allow the gears to wear against one another. The same wear will occur on the shift dogs and the synchronizers, which will reduce smooth shifting.

In this tech article we will go over all the steps to replace your manual gearbox oil and restore smooth shifting and extend the life of your gearbox. In order to access your manual gearbox you need to lift the vehicle. See our tech article on jacking up and supporting your vehicle. At the bottom of the transmission and on the left side identify the two 18mm plugs (green arrows) on the manual gearbox. This is the fill plug, it is always a good idea to make sure you can remove the fill plug before you drain anything Remove the 18mm drain plug from the bottom of the gearbox and allow fluid to drain out. Continue to pump into the hole until it starts to drip out Start the engine and let the car come up to operating temperature. Go on a test drive to verify you can shift gears. Click here to order! Hydraulics seem to be working fine. Before this occurred one day, the clutch pedal got very stiff and wouldn't go to the floor. Waited like 10 minutes and it freed up but now it grinds into gears when I shift. Differential? 2002 540i Give The Pelican Parts parts specialists a call at 1-888-280-7799. They can figure out what part or repair kit you need.There was a thud when it slipped but no grinding.Detach it and see if you can manually shift the trans. If not, the trans has an internal problem and will need disassembly to diagnose. - Nick at Pelican Parts Pelican Parts is not associated with Porsche Cars North America in any manner, except for a mutual appreciation and love of the cars. All pictures and references to the Porsche name, and the car names and shapes are for restoration reference only, and do not imply any association with Porsche. Pelican Parts is not responsible for any typographical errors contained within the site. Information and technical articles within this website are for reference only. Consult authorized factory manuals when performing repair procedures.

By entering this site, you agree to hold Pelican Parts free from any liability arising out of the use of any information contained within. Facelift model, 2001 540i. Reading is key ??Both are cream interior, with m-sport steering wheels. Also have black manual seats as pictured. Steering Wheels. Seats. Clusters. Headunits. Countless interior bits At the moment, all exterior body parts are only available if you have a replacement to offer me as the car(s) are not garaged. Share and get insider information about auto shops, restaurants, best roads and what every you like. Read More! PayU is a secure alternative to PayPal which supports Wire Transfers allong with all major credit cards. We don’t ask for your credit card info, we leave that to the Pros.Delivery fees start from 4.6 EUR. If you can’t find your country in our list, contact us and we will update our list. Something went wrong. Cancel Thanks, we'll look into this. All Rights Reserved. User Agreement, Privacy, Cookies and AdChoice Norton Secured - powered by Verisign.