fuji ex1 manual

If the “connection error” message does not clear from the display, check that the camera is connected. Similar to Fujifilm's other X Series interchangeable-lens camera, the X-Pro1, the video capabilities on the X-E1 do not appear to have been a priority in the design of the camera; many features, settings and recording formats for video present on similar cameras in this price category are not available on the X-E1. Users are also given the option of 720p HD recording at this same frame rate. The X-E1 does have full-time autofocus during video recording, which many people will welcome, although the option for manual focusing during video is available. Audio is recorded in stereo using the built-in microphone, although unlike the X-Pro1, users now have the option of using an external microphone. However, aperture, exposure compensation, and focus mode, along with movie settings like video resolution, film simulation effects and white balance cannot be changed during video recording. Video recording on the X-E1 is limited to only 24 frames per second, which is nice for that cinematic look and feel. However, if you're looking to shoot fast action scenes for use in slow motion video, for instance, at a more appropriate 60 frames per second, another camera would be a better choice. It's there if you want it, or need it. It doesn't provide a wide range of enthusiast- or professional-level video features, but for the target customer of the X-E1, the video features should suffice. Primarily for still photography, but works identically in video mode. No standard-definition modes are offered. The X-E1 records movies in H.264 format with stereo PCM audio, using an MOV container. No spec is provided for the audio sampling rate, though video players report 16-bit, 48 kHz stereo audio, regardless of resolution. Fujifilm recommends use of at least a Class 4 Secure Digital card to avoid issues with write speeds during video capture.

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Fujifilm X-E1 is a premium mirrorless interchangeable lens camera equipped with a 16 MP APS-C X-Trans CMOS sensor, 2.36M-dots OLED EVF. Featuring the FUJIFILM X-mount, the X-E1 is compatible with the Fujinon XF lenses. Other highlights include High-speed Auto Focus, ISO up to 25600, In-camera RAW converter, Film Simulation modes, Powerful Auto Bracketing Functions and Full HD video recording. Leave a Comment Cancel reply Save my name, email, and website in this browser for the next time I comment. Learn more about what we’re about. Suited to professionals and keen enthusiasts alike. Suited to professionals and keen enthusiasts alike. Suited to professionals and keen enthusiasts alike. By using the site you are agreeing to our Privacy Policy. Some instructions and illustrations may differ depending on the option selected. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete the installation. Select Yes to permit installation. Follow the on-screen instructions to complete installation. Enter your password or use Touch ID to accept and begin installation. You will also need to adjust the following settings when using the camera as a webcam for a web conferencing app: Note, however, that the digital zoom, exposure compensation, film simulation, and white balance settings in effect when you last exited X Webcam will be restored. When using the camera in USB TETHER SHOOTING while connecting the camera with a USB cable to an output other than computers, the camera might not activate properly. You will also need to exit any additional web conferencing apps not currently in use. These settings can be changed while the camera is connected to the computer; to change other settings, you must first turn the camera off and disconnect the USB cable before adjusting settings using camera controls. Launch FUJIFILM X Webcam 2 manually by clicking the shortcut icon. Click again to end exposure lock. Be sure to update to the latest version. See “ Configuring the Camera ”.

The camera always sets two out of three sides of the exposure triangle for you automatically: shutter speed and ISO. Depending on the lens being used, there is the choice of having the aperture set automatically or manually. Once video recording has started, though, you're locked into that aperture, and shutter speed and ISO are continuously adjusted by the camera accordingly. Also, white balance can be set automatically or from the standard array of settings that are present in still image mode. This is a handy addition that will let you know if you are under or over exposed. As is often the case, the histogram is only available before recording, disappearing once recording starts. The X-E1 itself has a built-in stereo microphone, although we found the stereo separation relatively poor. You do have some control over the microphone recording level, which can be adjusted in 4-stage increments prior to recording. Again, there is no way to change the audio level in the camera during video recording. Also, the mic jack on the X-E1 is a dual-function jack. This port can also be used with a remote release, such as the Fujifilm RR-80 (sold separately) or other third-party remotes. You have to specify in the Video mode shooting menu what function you want to use (mic or remote). In order to shoot videos, you will have to enable it in the DRIVE menu. Unlike many other cameras, the X-E1 does not have a separate video record button that lets you to start recording video immediately. Once in video mode, recording is started and stopped with a full-press of the shutter button. Some reviewers have complained that the movie mode option is all the way at the bottom of the Drive menu, but you can just arrow-up and the menu selection will wrap around, making it just two button presses to get to where you want. It's still much slower than having a dedicated external button.

In our daylight test videos, there was a noticeable flickering noise pattern with the appearance of compression artifacts in highly textured areas such as the asphalt street. High contrast details were crisp and sharp, but any subtle local contrast or texture very quickly became mushy looking, losing a lot of fine detail. Color rendition appeared natural, bright and accurate. The X-E1 did unexpectedly well in our standard night tests. Very little noise was seen in the overall image, and even in the shadow areas, noise was barely noticeable or well controlled. The X-E1 was set to ISO 2000 in this case, rather than the typical ISO 3200-6400 range. (Most cameras end up at about ISO 3200 in our standard night shots.) It seemed to hunt for focus if the subject moved out from the center of the frame, but even objects in the center of the frame drifted out of focus at times. In Single AF (S) mode, the user must first press the shutter button halfway down to focus on the desired subject, however whenever the shutter button is completely pressed and video recording has started, full-time autofocus will take over. Continuous AF (C) mode works identically during video recording, the only difference being that the camera is constantly autofocusing, so the initial half-press of the shutter button is not needed. Fujifilm does note that Continuous AF decreases battery life. The AF-L button is a nice feature that bridges the gap between manually focusing and autofocus; while in Manual Focus mode, you have the option of pressing the AF-L button to quickly autofocus on your subject. This is similar to half-pressing the shutter button in Single AF mode. The AF-L button is deactivated once video recording has started, though. This is a nice little feature, as a reasonable estimate of subject distance is often close enough at video resolutions. Again, white balance changes can only be made prior to the start of recording, though.

It's faster and easier to use for people who know how to shoot because it has all the right controls in the right places, and it's always super-sharp and handles any crazy light you can throw at it. X-E1's color rendition is great for people photos, but a poor choice for color work of places and things. The X-E1 excels for black-and-white shooting because of its extraordinary sharpness and freedom from distortion, and I love shooting in its optional square format just like my Mamiya 6 or Hasselblad. It has no anti-alias filter, so the results are much sharper than from most other cameras, and color rendition is strongly optimized for people, not thing, photos. With the X-E1, it seems as if I can't make a blurry or malexposed shot. The X-E1 is 30% smaller than the X-Pro1, and has an even higher-resolution electronic viewfinder, for less money. The X-E1 has no optical finder as does the X-Pro1, but adds a built-in flash, all for less money. The X-E1 does what the LEICA M9 does well, even better than the M9 does it! The X-E1 allows you to shoot faster, be more discrete and attract less attention. The X-E1 brings back stunning technical quality from a compact, precise, all-metal camera with a minimum of fuss. When you learn it, the X-E1 is simpler and faster to shoot than the M9. Hallelujah! The all-metal X-E1's markings are engraved more deeply and the buttons work and feel much better. The X-E1's tripod socket, not that you'd ever use it, is part of the camera body, not just an afterthought attached to the removable thin metal bottom plate of the M9. Of course there is through-the-lens viewing, completely absent on any LEICA available as I write this. Read in Aperture, M9 DNGs can look a bit better than X-E1 JPGs.) The X-E1 is ergonomically superior to LEICA, the optics are at least as good, for a fraction of the price. The X-E1 is also worlds better at high ISOs than the LEICA M9. Nikon and Canon don't any more. LEICA and Nikon don't any more.

As we pointed out in the Field Test section of this review, you can always assign the Fn button to enable video mode, but that of course means not being able to use it for some other parameter like ISO. This last menu option allows you enable or disable various on-screen information such as framing guides, electronic level, histogram and exposure compensation. Some cameras do a much better job at minimizing this effect than others. The X-E1, sadly, does not do well in this area. In both 1080p and 720p video, rolling shutter was very noticeable and pronounced with even modest camera motion. At higher frame rates, you'd normally see less of an effect, but the X-E1 only offers 24 frames per second, so keep that in mind when shooting video. Slow pans only! As a result, you'll want a fairly recent computer to play the X-E1's Full HD video files, and a pretty powerful machine for Full HD video editing. Here in the office, we're largely Mac-based. You should really have a Core i5 or Core i7 processor for best results. (Sorry, we don't have any experience with Core i3 or AMD-based Windows machines, so can't offer any guidance there.) If you're still on a standard-def TV, though, you're out of luck, as the X-E1 doesn't offer any form of standard-def video output connectivity. Fujifilm. Thanks for helping me help you! Ken. Unlike most of the disposable plastic (but expensive) cameras I review today, the X-E1 is a real camera: all-metal with engraved markings, and so are its lenses. It's better built than anything today from Nikon or Canon, and the same as LEICA — for a fraction of the price of any of them. It's optimized and great for people photos, but too dull for photos of things. The X-E1 excels in crappy light, but its colors don't look very good in good light. Even when set to HIGH color, it is subdued and doesn't respond well to adding saturation later. It's nowhere near as good as the X100's flash.

The image then fills most of the screen with blank bar at the bottom; you can't read sectional histograms as zoomed. The X-E1 sucks power any time you're viewing though it, regardless if you take a picture. See page 33 of the US manual for more. Use Bulb for times up to an hour. Set this way, the X-E1 increases ISO as needed (to ISO 800 even in daylight) to retain highlight detail, all automatically as needed.This is how I select rectangular or square images from shot to shot. You have to remember to unset the quiet mode. The Fuji lenses are extraordinary, and they also have full focus and exposure and diaphragm automation, all lost if you waste time adapting LEICA lenses or others to the X-E1. Straps The plastic gizmos that integrate so well with LEICA cameras will mar the X-E1's finish. I use electrical tape to protect my X-E1, more diligent people use Fuji's provided strap lugs, tools and protectors with other straps instead. Everything else about the X-E1 is superior, with a built-in flash and less size and weight, for less money. I returned my X-Pro1 because its finder had a defective design that rendered it out-of-focus unless you bought an external diopter for it. Even the LEICA M9 handles like a pig by comparison with it's all-manual focusing and no way to see what you've really got in your image until after you look at the rear LCD. Its color rendition for people is superb, but not very good for nature and landscape snaps. The X-E1 has far better color than the LEICA M9, but that's not saying much. If you, like most people, prefer interchangeable lenses, then the X-E1 is superb. It just shoots! Isn't it to simplify things.For that, the Fuji X100 works better. It costs you nothing, and is this site's, and thus my family's, biggest source of support. These places have the best prices and service, which is why I've used them since before this website existed. I recommend them all personally.

It's great people like you who allow me to keep adding to this site full-time. Thanks! Thank you. The 13-digit and 10-digit formats both work. Please try again.Please try again.Please try again. Used: GoodSatisfaction guaranteed. Always free shipping with Amazon Prime. The man who does not read good books has no advantage over the man who cannot read them. Mark TwainSomething we hope you'll especially enjoy: FBA items qualify for FREE Shipping and Amazon Prime. Learn more about the program. Readers will learn about the features and capabilities of these cameras and will discover numerous tips and tricks for how to maximize their potential. The book also covers lenses and key accessories, as well as various post-processing options. With the X-E1 and X-Pro1, Fujifilm released two affordable mirrorless system cameras with APS-C sensors that rival modern full-frame cameras. The successful combination of high-end retro design and state-of-the-art digital camera technology, originally seen in the X100 viewfinder camera, has now been pushed even further. The systems offer a number of FUJINON interchangeable zoom and prime lenses, and several more have been announced. In a layout suitable to the cameras' attractive design, this manual presents imagery that attests to the fun you will have as you begin to push the envelope of your Fujifilm X-E1 or X-Pro1. Then you can start reading Kindle books on your smartphone, tablet, or computer - no Kindle device required. In order to navigate out of this carousel please use your heading shortcut key to navigate to the next or previous heading. Register a free business account He has written a number of books on topics as diverse as Adobe PageMaker and sled dogs, and produced a beautiful book of photographs titled Huskies in Action. He has spent time working as the head of a department with the German Burda-Publishing Company and served as chief editor for a winter sports website.

Nikon and Canon don't any more. Set both to A for Professional (formerly Program) exposure mode. Done. The X-E1 has a built-in manual focus assist loupe. Neither Nikon nor Canon has ever been good enough. Nikon and Canon's nature and landscape shots offer wild colors that still look natural, while pushing the Fujis and LEICAs start to look artificial. Photographers don't do menus; forget the Sony NEX-7 and its flimsy plastic brethren that feel more cell phones than cameras, with their overpriced plastic zoom lenses and slow fixed lenses. I need a camera with real dials like the X-E1 and fast metal lenses, not a plastic toy. I don't use this on other cameras, but the X-E1's blinking highlight option works just fine instead. The only bad part is that colors are great for people and for anything in poor light, but poor for most other things for which we want color images. It's fast enough not to ge tin the way, but you're always aware that the X-E1 is just barely keeping up with the pro user. If you use the center sensor in AF-S, the left side in AF-C and the upper right in Manual, each will still be there when you switch back. It doesn't continue to focus once you half-press the shutter, so ho cares? No worries, the proper way to use the manual focus mode is to tap the AFL button to spot-focus as needed; not to use the focus ring. Yes, its easy to focus manually on the top left of the frame if you wish. This button is right under your eye, where your thumb will get in the way. If you don't hold down the AF button, three of the directional buttons are ignored, and the top one gets you in and out of the Macro mode. Ooops! This is good, because the X-E1 focuses so well most of the time that I forget that there is rarely something on which the X-E1 doesn't immediately grab focus. I get every shot in perfect focus, better than any other brand of camera in my experience.

With other cameras I sometimes shoot bursts just in case, and with the X-E1, they're all always in perfect focus, so I have to train myself to trust the X-E1! It's small, and not well aligned for two-eye shooting. I think it exaggerates the colors, giving you a false sense of security. Images look vibrant on the brilliant, contrasty finder, but duller on a calibrated monitor. The only defect in the automatic eye-control is that if bright sunlight is shining on your eye as you hold it to the finder, that the X-E1 may switch back to the rear LCD instead. Another defect can be that when shutter is halfway down, the X-E1 won't swap between rear LCD and OLED finder as you move your eye. Adding insult, it doesn't change character if compensation is set or not, so even though it's always in the way of our composition, it doesn't do anything more to warn if it got knocked and is active. Fuji should make the scale go away at zero, and appear when set to other than zero. In my 2013 Route 66 gallery, I never needed to level my shots later; they came right out of the camera level, saving me a lot of time.It's not instant as I'd prefer, possibly an instant slower than my X100. Oddly, screwing it in or removing it will rotate the concentric power power switch to ON or OFF! There's some horizontal play in the button; this is no LEICA M3 (but it's still better than the big kinks in the pull of the LEICA M9 ). This tiny camera always feels stable. The eye-control won't swap displays if you move your eye during any of this. It doesn't look at all like Velvia; it looks like a bad scan of Velvia, with crushed blacks and shadows devoid of any detail. Photoshop CS6 does just fine, as updated in February 2013. The only way to fool it is shooting white paper filling the frame in indoor light, which comes out gray. No worries; it's trivial to flick the compensation dial. Worse, the PLAY button is also on the wrong side of the XE1, demanding a second hand to hit PLAY.

After eight years as a freelance film critic in Los Angeles, Rico now lives in Germany and devotes his time to digital photography and compact camera systems. To calculate the overall star rating and percentage breakdown by star, we don’t use a simple average. Instead, our system considers things like how recent a review is and if the reviewer bought the item on Amazon. It also analyzes reviews to verify trustworthiness. Please try again later. SWA 5.0 out of 5 stars He's got it down to a slick, smooth, class act. For starters, Pfirstinger knows these cameras forward, backward and inside out. He's learned them, used them and communicated with the people who made them. He's thought of everything necessary to get you comfortably and knowledgeably beyond the cut-and-dried contents of the cameras' official manuals. Tips, advice, explanations and useful insights — he's left no nugget of useful, interesting knowhow unturned. Pfirstinger's prose is comfortably conversational and unerringly clear as a bell. And, as I indicated, if you want to write about some other camera or tech gadget, you'd do well to study how Pfirstinger does it. I've read more than one or two such books, and none of them impressed me the way this one has.Each button does a number of things, depending on which shooting mode one is using and it can be a daunting task to remember it all. This book is much clearer than the camera manual and makes learning fun. The downside, if there is one, is the information on the XPro camera, which one has to unnecessarily read through to ensure that they don't overlook any pertinent information about the X E1. Also, with each new firmware update, the new information is not included in the book. Overall, I find the book to be a really valuable asset to learning the mechanics of using the X E1 to it's full capacity and would highly recommend it. The author also has an Internet blog about the camera which is very helpful!

However- Rico's Kindle Book helped me understand the in's and out's of the X-Pro 1 and the XE-1. To the reviewer who described it as a waste of money- I really don't see how that's true. Every important aspect was addressed, and examples were given.I was not disappointed as it covered much of the venue that indeed helps one get a good grasp on the camera, controls and abilities. I would recommend it to a friend easily.His germanic style and approach to describing the functionality of this family of cameras is truly enjoyable. This is about as good as an expanded manual you will ever get.Discount codes (which unfortunately I did not use) are readily found.I really like this guide as it addresses areas I was looking for details on. This includes the custom presets, how the camera handles Dynamic Range and ISO, and the tone curve settings. It is an excellent technical guide and I found it very straightforward. I agree with the title of the book as it is a great resource and it's very handy to have available in E-Book format when needing to reference something. Thank you Rico.Nothing groundbreaking inside but it's nice to have large print and simple examples for those of us that are less technically minded but still want to learn and improve.The price has also dropped which makes it even more worthwhile to purchase.The XP1 is a quirky little camera, with a user interface all its own. It can take some getting used to or, in my case, re-familiarization. I picked up the original manual and my heart sank. It's extremely terse, with print so tiny that I had to hold it up to my face. To make sense of it you have to flip back and forth between sections repeatedly. I did all this before, when I first bought the camera, and I just couldn't face doing it again. This book is much longer than the official manual, but I don't think it really contains any relevant additional information. There's a lot of stuff that isn't (in my view) all that useful.

There's a discussion, for example, of issues related to raw conversion. That's stuff you'll either know or you won't; but if you don't, you need to study it properly -- the brief treatment in a book of this sort won't be sufficient. Similar considerations apply to HDR imaging and general camera handling. These things aren't handled badly in the book; but they aren't specific to the camera, and are dealt with better in general photography publications. Still, the book is much, much more fun to read than the manual. Topics are grouped together in a useful way, and there are plenty of colour photographs to illustrate important aspects of the user interface. The author clearly has some real, practical experience with the camera, and is willing to point out aspects of its operation that are unhelpful or just defective -- something that the manufacturer's manual won't do. He has a clear idea of how the camera should be used and, although he does offer a justification for his opinions, he comes across as fairly sure that his way is best. If, for example, you're one of those people who like to do all the work in the camera, and not post-process images using a computer, I suspect you'll find the author's opinions a bit grating. Since the author's approach is much the same as my own, his biases don't bother me, but I can see how they might be a bit distracting to some people. I'm torn about whether this book is really with ?20. Time is money, as they say, and I guess I saved twenty quids' worth of my time by reading this rather than the manual.The tips and shortcuts as well as the way in which the author navigates the reader through the sophisticated capabilities of these pieces of equipment are simply not available in the manual provided. Illustrated throughout, this book is essential reading both as an introduction and a reference source.It's all there. Everything you need to know.

I like the fact that Rico not only clearly explains all the options for using this camera, but gives a lot of advice on when and how to use them. In other words, it's written by a user and not just a re-hash of the Fuijifilm manual. I have an Fujifilm X20 so that gives me a head-start, but I learned a lot yesterday as I went from cover to cover. Recommended.Clear writing with just enough enthusiasm to encourage, but not get in the way of objective descriptions of functions. The book qua book is quite 'unhandy' being bound in a way that requires two hands and some effort to make it stay open, which is a nuisance since a reader mostly wants to look at camera at same time as read the advice. I still recommend it.There is a lot of good knowledge which has evidently been collected through hard won experience. I found that I had to read things two or three times before finally getting the point. Perhaps a chapter summation with bullet points would clarify what has been said in sometimes too many words. Third-party lens manufacturers such as Samyang produce very high quality and relatively affordable manual focus lenses. Moreover, numerous adapters on the market open the doors to endless possibilities that span multiple brands and decades worth of lenses. From Canon to Nikon, M42 to Leica, the rabbit hole goes very deep for using adapters and lenses for your Fuji X. Yes, you lose autofocus functionality, but the manual focus assist options provided by mirrorless cameras has made manual lenses very easy to use. Personally, I went for a combination of modern third-party and classic M42 screw mount lenses. I had heard so many great things about this lens and I ended up buying it even before I had a camera to use it with. Plus Samyang makes them in the native Fuji X mount, so no adapters necessary. I got my Fuji X-E1 soon after, and it this combination has put more photos into my portfolio than any camera I’d ever used before. It still continues to do so to this day.

In the above photo, you’ll see a Cokin P series filter holder attached to the lens. It’s also very cheap. This lens is sharp (especially when stopped down a bit), small, built like a tank, and cheap. This gives me an equivalent reach of 200mm in a small, travel-friendly package. Adapters There is a wide range of adapters available on the market. Again, I will focus mainly on M42 lenses, which I have the most experience with. You can search Google for other kinds of lens adapters. There are also more specialized (and expensive) ones like Zhongyi Lens Turbo and Metabones Speed Booster. The latter two adapters mentioned have special optics inside that effectively make your camera perform like a full frame camera. The rest of them do pretty much the same thing. There are also some special adapters that can do tilt and shift, but we won’t discuss those. The more expensive adapters seem to have better build quality and I’m guessing more precise engineering, while the cheapest ones simply get the job done. Since this was just a fun experiment for me, I went for the cheapest one I could find. Since M42 lenses are screw-type, the lettering on the lenses may not always align properly. Fortunately, even the cheapest adapter comes with a hex key adjustment so you can adjust the lens alignment. Most of the adapters will allow the camera to focus to infinity and this is usually indicated in the product description. One thing I noticed about the cheaper adapters, however, is the focus scale is a bit off. For example, on my generic adapters, if you set the lens to infinity, you are actually a bit PAST infinity. I imagine the more expensive models will be more accurate, but I don’t have first hand experience. But since I rely mostly on the focus peaking, I don’t really look at the focus scale on the lens. If you want to do zone focusing or anything that will rely on the focus scale being 100% accurate, you might want to look into the more expensive adapters.